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There is a moment in Munich every September when the city changes character. Oktoberfest may be a reason to travel to Munich as the destination. The streets become livelier. Traditional dress returns to the centre of the conversation. Music carries into the evening. The scent of Bavarian food fills the air. And at the Theresienwiese, one of the world's most famous celebrations begins. Oktoberfest has become synonymous with Munich. But to experience it properly is to discover